One perfect day in Agadir

Start at Souk El Had, one of the largest markets in Morocco. It is walled, gated and enormous, divided roughly into sections: produce, spices, textiles, ceramics, leather, and a sprawl of everything else.

Go early, before the middle of the day. Bring cash in small notes, keep your bag in front of you in the crowded aisles, and expect to haggle — politely, and with a smile. Walking away is a normal part of the conversation, not an insult.

Worth looking for

• Argan oil, both culinary and cosmetic, from the co-operative stalls.
• Spices sold loose by weight rather than in tourist gift boxes.
• Fresh dates and olives, which are far better here than anywhere at home.
• Babouches and woven baskets, if you have room in your bag.

From the souk, head towards the water. Agadir's beach is a long, clean crescent, and the marina at its northern end is where most people stop for lunch — grilled fish, salads and a view of the boats.

The promenade that runs along the bay is good for a slow walk afterwards. If the day is hot, this is the point to stop pushing and sit somewhere shaded for an hour.

Above the city sits Agadir Oufella, the old kasbah on the hill. The 1960 earthquake destroyed most of Agadir, and the hilltop walls are one of the few older things left standing. A cable car runs up if you do not want to drive.

Go in the last hour or two of daylight. The view takes in the whole bay, the port and the hills behind, and the light at that time of day is the reason to make the climb at all.

You can eat in Agadir and head back late, or come back to Tamraght for dinner. Most of our guests do the second: the drive back along the coast in the dark is quiet, and the village is a gentler place to end the day than the city.

A good day out is one where you change the plan at least once.

One day is enough for Agadir if you keep it simple: market, water, hill, home. Do not try to add a fourth thing. The point of the day is the pace, not the list.